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Fine Dining / Menu Degustação · Vitória, ES

Soeta: fine dining in Vitória and the menu that tells a story

By gastronomizaê January 20, 2023 Price: alto ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Soeta: fine dining in Vitória and the menu that tells a story

Vitória doesn’t appear on the national gastronomic map with the frequency it should. The city has extraordinary seafood, a bar scene that rivals larger capitals, and — less known — a fine dining that plays at the level of the best establishments in the Rio-SP axis.

Soeta is that establishment.

The nine-course tasting menu begins with a tasting plate opener — that composition of three or four miniature preparations that tell the customer: pay attention, because what comes next will require you to be present. When the first course is a declaration of intent, you adjust your posture.

The Asian soup with corn popcorn arrives next — the clean and aromatic broth with Japanese umami background receiving the unexpected crunch of popped corn. Texture against texture as a principle of dish construction.

The fish starter on a black plate presents Espírito Santo’s product with pride: local fish with controlled acidity and balanced fat. The sole with beurre blanc is French technique applied with rigor — the butter sauce emulsified with white wine and échalote reduction has that pearlescent consistency that says nobody took shortcuts.

Gratinéed oyster with toasted corn is Espírito Santo in two ingredients: the sea and the land conversing on the same plate.

The main course with talharim and meat with sesame brings Asia back — the flavors of sesame and soy sauce that created dialogue with local production. The second main — a yellow curry or risotto with protein and foam — closes the savory phase with the richness that anticipates the necessary dessert.

The mil-folhas or tuile with ice cream and tomato compote closes the menu with that sweetness that includes enough acidity to not overwhelm the palate. Tomato as dessert isn’t provocation — it’s the logical result of someone who understands that the fruit has more sugar than most people imagine.

Vitória has a fine dining that you should know before everyone discovers it.

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